Well duh, I figured out why those guys were sleeping in the bath area. There’s a sauna and instead of doing the cold plunge they just return to human temperature by sitting in the chairs. I just went to the bath early and it’s so much nicer when there’s only three people in there.

I got up this morning happy that the only ambulance that went by was after 5am. There’s a hospital across the way (actually across a canal and a road) but it’s the view outside of my hotel room. I got up way fewer times last night. I figure I might finally be getting over my jet lag and also not overeating at a ryokan helps.

I didn’t want to deal with a crowd at the big bath so I used the shower that’s in my room. There’s a Seinfeld episode where Kramer replaces his showerhead with an elephant-washing nozzle. That’s kind of what it felt like. It was kind of nice at the same time.

I didn’t sign up for the breakfast plan so it was off to find a “morning set.” My sister found a couple of places but they all opened at 9am. I took it easy in my room for a while. The place she told me to try was good and looked like a nice date spot. I saw a kid and his grandma (I think) reading a review in a book of coffee shops. There’s a very nice view of the canal.

They could possibly roast their own beans as well.

I did the thing I’m always told not to do, which is ask for advice. They told me if I was hungry to get the gratin set. You can’t see it but it was pretty big. The salad had an odd curry dressing (it seems like they really like their curry here but the gratin was great. I figured I might not be getting much lunch so it was a good choice.

Then it was off to visit Izumo and the Izumo Grand Shrine. I timed things so well that I had to wait 45 minutes for the next train. That’s OK, I’m on vacation. I found two onsen foot baths that I didn’t want to take pictures of because both were in use! I didn’ t have a towel with me so I didn’t participate. It really is nice soaking your feet in the warm water.

Here’s the first train. This train I think goes all the way past the west end of Izumo to the sea so you have to transfer to get to Izumo Grand Shrine.

The transfer train didn’t look as nice.

I’ve been to Izumo Taisha before and I think it was much less crowded this time.

Being a Grand Shrine, there’s a lot of walking.

This is the closest thing I have to a religion so I paid my respects. This is supposed to ensure marriage or something and I think it works as well as any other religion in that way.

There are many enshrined dieties here and the side shrine is bigger than most I”ve seen. There was a wedding taking place. I know it’s rude to take pictures of them but they were just in my picture of the shrine.

 

I left out the side and went to the seaside where there’s another shrine. I just took a quick picture and headed back to the train.

Not framed well but a huge tour group was arriving and I took a quick pick and got out of there.

Did I mention it’s a bit of a hike to the oceanside? There’s a bunch of toursity stores from the train to the shrine and usually that means a lot of street food! I couldn’t find anything that wasn’t mobbed by schoolkids so I just got some warabi mochi. It was a little too sweet for me AND I ate several before I remembered to take a picture.

I made it back to the train and thought I’d just missed the nonstop back to Matsue. I should learn how to tell time because I was actually 50 minutes early. I decided to head back out and try to find something a little more savory. I had to wait with a bunch of schoolgirls but I got a wagyu rice burger that was pretty good. I’m not sure how they got the outside so hot that I could hardly hold it while not being that hot when I ate it.

The train finally came and I was asleep for most of the ride.

It was later in the afternoon but I wanted to sit down and have a snack. I ended up back at my hotel before heading to the train station to buy the next day’s ticket. It was close to 4pm before I got some tea and a snack. I kept it light because I knew I was going to have an early dinner.

The problem with Matsue is that everything I found was an izakaya. I feel bad about going to a drinking place and only eating. I sorta feel bad about going to brewpubs back home just to eat too, but I’m sure I’m not the only one doing that. In any case, I found a soba restaurant next to the station and got the “Izumo” set.

Under the middle plate was the soba.

They eat soba in a different way here. You pour the tsuyu onto the soba and then pour the leftover onto the second plate of soba. It made for a lighter taste. It was fine. Nothing beats the soba Yumi took me to in the middle of nowhere in Okayama.

On the way back to the hotel I saw something else interesting happening in the canal. Crew shells! It’s really hard to ask about the crew shells because I don’t know any of the Japanese words relating to crew. I found out Shimane University isn’t too far away so I figure they have a boathouse nearby. It was like pulling teeth findiing out that little bit of info.

I got back early and got in the bath by 6:30pm-ish. It’s so much nicer when it’s not crowded. Plus I’m a boring old man and I’m not out late carousing any more. I used to stay out late looking for local craft beers. In fact, I found a taproom. Oh well. Time to relax. My legs are tired from all the walking and I’m only a week in!